by The Star "EATING OUT"
Monday, 17 Nov 2014, 12:00 AM MYT
BY VINCENT TAN
THE decision to name his restaurant ‘Naughty Babe Dirty Duck’ (NBDD) came about because owner Leon Gee wanted something instantly memorable for patrons.
As per the name, the establishment focuses almost solely on pork and duck dishes, with only four main dishes for fish, beef, lamb and chicken.
With more than 43 dishes on the menu, with 15 choices for the mains, we had to limit ourselves to some of the more popular and well-known dishes at NBDD during the review.
For a cold appetiser, the NBDD Platter (RM58) consists of multiple slices of Serrano ham, air-dried lomo (pork tenderloin) and chorizos, accompanied by a salad centrepiece of greens, olives, walnut and almonds, sprinkled with balsamic vinegar dressing.
Do try out the Serrano or lomo slices with the cubes of melon, as the mild rock melon taste complements the savouriness of the cured meats.
The BBQ Pork Ribs (RM38 for half slab and RM68 for full slab) are almost inarguably the main attraction at NBDD, with two dips consisting of tomato salsa and the appropriately-named “Hot Stuff” — a mix of fresh and dried chillies and shallots.
The slice of key lime (limau nipis) is not just for garnishing, and the juice squeezed onto the ribs provides a sharp counterpoint to the BBQ sauce’s sweetness.
Diners looking for something more exotic, and are willing to splurge, can also try out the Oven Roasted Iberico Spare Ribs (RM78), crusted in a blend of aromatic herbs with a side of pineapple and rocket salad.
The spare ribs can get a little salty, but one does get the pork’s natural flavour and again, the tang of the pineapple/rocket salad with balsamic dressing is a nice contrast to the meat.
Dirty Duck (RM32) is a duck leg confit with a lard-steeped crisp skin, and side dishes consisting of yam sautéed with pork bacon and grilled yellow and green zucchini.
However, it was very strange to have confit with gravy, even if it was red-wine reduction and mushroom sauce.
One suggestion would be for the sauce to be served separately, so that it does not soak the crispy duck skin and consequently alter the dish’s original taste.
NBDD does two types of pork knuckle dishes (both RM98), in case you were worried, the first being the more well-known crispy version, with tapioca on the side.
Or you could try Babe’s Cured Knuckle, with sauerkraut and a tomato-flavoured potato mash; but go with an empty stomach for this one as the knuckle makes a complete meal for two or three even.
“We had to tone down the sauerkraut, because the feedback from the earlier versions we prepared was too sour, and we have added some cream to lessen the impact,” said Gee.
The cured knuckle is surprisingly mild, the texture similar to that of ham and when eaten together with the sauerkraut and mash, is quite flavourful.
Diners who want individual dishes could also take a gander at the Balsamic Glazed Smoked Duck Breast (RM48) or the Char-Broiled Sakura Pork Chop (RM28).
The former is a 200gm smoked duck breast, sliced with chunks of orange sacs placed between, again a contrasting play between two flavours.
Served with a light cranberry sauce reduced with red wine and stock, the Sakura chop goes well with its side dish of sweet potato, and broccoli.
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